Nelpura Heritage Homestay is situated ten minutes’ down a narrow backwater canal, the approach lined by over-hanging palms and simple village housing. On arrival, one finds a simple but extremely welcoming homestay, courtesy of Mr Chacko and his hospitable family. Accommodation is in three basic rooms, each with their own ensuite bathroom, sharing a small kitchenette. The hosting is the real draw here, with excellent food served in the family’s dining room (all guests and family eat together around the same table) and a thoughtful selection of off-the-beaten-track activities including canoe rides, cycling, village walks, visits to local schools and markets, and cooking classes.