For some the idea of visiting the world’s most heavily-fortified border would be somewhat off-putting, but visits to the de-militarised zone have become a hugely popular day trip from Seoul. Tours, always on a shared basis, run on various itineraries but will all include some combination of the Dora Observatory and Dorasan Station, the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel, and Camp Bonifas. Those seeking a full-day tour will also be taken to Panmunjeom – an abandoned village within the DMZ which has now become the Joint Security Area (JSA). The JSA’s long blue huts hold very occasional talks between the two sides, and are the closest you’ll get to crossing over. Despite the somewhat alarming prospect of visiting what effectively remains a warzone, you may be surprised to find that South Korean side of the border is now quite the tourist treadmill: enormous coach parks at the main stops, giftshops, restaurants and even fairground rides! However, visitors should note that while the DMZ receives hundreds of tourists every day, tours are prone to cancellation should you be visiting during an especially tense period. Behaving with tact while on the tour is essential: obey all photo rules and follow the military guideline of keeping a ‘neat and presentable appearance’ – this means no jeans, shorts, flip-flops, or provocative or slogan-heavy clothing.