A Sojourn Through Southern Myanmar
Departing from Yangon on a highway that heads west, and ultimately south, I set out in search of adventure in a somewhat forgotten, but nevertheless rewarding, part of Myanmar. Passing Yangon's infamous white elephants, and the Allied War Cemetery at Taukkyan, I reach the sleepy town of Bago which is famous for its enormous reclining Buddha and the dazzling architecture of Kambawzathardi Golden Palace - a reconstruction of the 16th century palace of King Bayinnaung, one of Burma's most popular kings.
From Bago my next stop is at Kyaiktiyo, or the Golden Rock Pagoda - a large boulder, covered in gold leaf, which is precariously balanced at the top of Mount Kyaiktiyo. This famous rock draws pilgrims from all over the country, many of whom sleep out in the open, close to the rock, in order to absorb some of the spiritual magic of this sacred place. The rock is particularly atmospheric in the evening, and early morning, when the light is good and the golden rock casts a shimming light over a devoted flock.
Descending from the Golden Rock I take the road south to Hpa An which is the setting for a stunning array of karst mountains, many of which are home to a plethora of caves. In keeping with age old traditions a number of the caves are considered holy places and as such are festooned with Buddha images and small pagodas. Hpa An is also a good place to stop for the active. Walking, cycling and climbing are all common pursuits in these parts.
From Hpa An I travel further south to my next port of call, Mawlamyine, which was the first capital of British Burma between 1826 and 1852. In colonial times this scenic riverside town was called Moulmein and was home to Orwell and Kipling, both of whom waxed lyrical about its natural, and manmade, beauty. After exploring its pagodas, bustling market and the nearby Bilu Island, I set out on the long drive to Dawei on what can only be described as an ‘improving' stretch of road.
As I reach Dawei I begin to understand what it must have been like to travel in the ‘good old days' before the age of modernity and ubiquitous WiFi. Dawei is a relic from a bygone era with its charming old wooden houses, complete with shady verandas, and its laid back feel. Unfortunately this fascinating, and historic, town is soon to become part of Myanmar's fastest developing region thanks to the construction of the ‘Dawei Deep-Sea Port' and a special economic zone promoted by both Myanmar and Thailand. For the time being this peaceful town slumbers merrily away but a rude awakening lies just around the corner.