Land of Apsaras (16 days)
This varied and colourful tour of Cambodia covers the main highlights of the Angkor Temples & Phnom Penh with the lesser-known areas of Mondulkiri, Kratie and Battambang. After time to explore the capital follow the path of the Mekong River to the colonial town of Kratie to stay in an atmospheric guesthouse on a river island, and take a boat trip to search for rare Irrawaddy dolphins. Continue east for some wildlife experiences in Mondulkiri Province, home to protected forests, waterfalls and a fascinating elephant conservation project. After a short stay to explore the river port of Kompong Cham, drive north to Battambang to see the historic old town and fertile lands of the northeast where rural lifestyles have changed little in generations. The final stage of the tour is a private boat journey across Lake Tonle Sap to Siem Reap, gateway to the temples of Angkor.
Guide Price
From £4,350 per person based on a shared room for departures in May.
Day by Day Itinerary
Click on each day to expand the itinerary detail. Or click on the print itinerary button above to preview the tour in full.
Flight: VN50 London Heathrow - Ho Chi Minh City 11.15 - 06.15 (overnight)
Meet & greet: Upon arrival at Phnom Penh airport, you will be welcomed to Cambodia by your private English-speaking guide, and then transferred to your hotel.
Accommodation: Stay tonight at the Palace Gate Hotel (Deluxe Room)
Half day tour of Phnom Penh: Start your tour of Cambodia’s capital at the stunning Royal Palace complex, home to the Cambodian royal family and a symbol of the nation. Here you will see beautiful gardens landscaped with tropical plants and the Throne Hall where the royal receptions are held and the Cambodian king's coronation took place. Continue to the Silver Pagoda, named after the 5,000 silver tiles covering the floor, each weighing 1kg. Inside are some of the country's most cherished treasures, including a life-size gold Buddha studded with 9584 diamonds, the largest weighing 25 carats. Leave the Royal Palace and continue to the nearby National Museum, home to the world's finest collection of sculpture from the Angkor period. The exquisite building was completed between 1917 and 1920 and features a lush courtyard garden surrounded by collections from the pre-Angkor, Angkor and post-Angkor periods.
You will then have the option to learn of the Khmer Rouge’s horrific crimes at Tuol Sleng, a former high school that the Khmer Rouge turned into a centre for interrogation, torture and death. 17,000 people passed through the gates of this prison and only seven lived to tell the tale. The Khmer Rouge were meticulous in their record keeping, photographing all the prisoners and many of these haunting black and white images are on display in the cells. Tuol Sleng is a profoundly moving experience and not everyone will want to visit. However, it is key to understanding the hell into which Cambodia descended and how far it has come in the years since.
Finish your tour at the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek. An old Chinese cemetery, Choeung Ek was turned into an extermination camp for political prisoners. The remains of 8985 people were exhumed from mass graves and are kept in a memorial stupa here. Despite the horrors of the past, it is a peaceful place to go and a tranquil spot to reflect on the tragic events that engulfed Cambodia and its people.
Accommodation: Stay tonight at the Palace Gate Hotel (Deluxe Room)
Meals: Breakfast
Road journey from Phnom Penh to Kratie: Leave Phnom Penh and travel northeast to the bustling provincial city of Kompong Cham. En route, there is the chance to pause at Skuon, affectionately known as 'Spiderville', where it is possible to sample the local delicacy of deep fried tarantula. Afterwards the road journey continues on the east bank, passing through the old river port of Chhlong, home to some of the best examples of French colonial architecture in the country. Continue to Kratie, a sleepy Mekong port and gateway to an encounter with the rare freshwater Irrawaddy dolphin that inhabit the upper reaches of the Mekong.
Cycling Explore Koh Trong Island: This afternoon, you will be taken on a tour of Koh Trong Island by bike. Koh Trong is a quiet island in the Mekong River facing Kratie Town. The peaceful island is a perfect place to get a slice of rural life in Cambodia. The locals here are very friendly, and you will be taken to visit a local community house, where you can assist in a community tree-planting program. Return to your hotel to enjoy dinner in peaceful surroundings.
Accommodation: Stay tonight at the Rajabori Villas (Junior Suite Room)
Meals: Breakfast
Irrawaddy dolphin spotting trip: After breakfast travel to nearby Kampi and set off in search of the rare Irrawaddy dolphin which inhabits this stretch of river. Travel by motorised boat to access the deep pools where the dolphins are found before switching to local paddle boat to avoid disturbing these gentle creatures. Viewing is commonplace, although it is easier to see the dolphins in the shallower waters of the dry season, than in the swollen river of the wet season. After spending some time alone with these rare creatures, return Kratie and take the local ferry to your hotel on Koh Trong Island and spend the rest of the day at leisure.
Accommodation: Stay tonight at the Rajabori Villas (Junior Suite Room)
Meals: Breakfast
Road journey from Kratie to Mondulkiri: After breakfast this morning, we travel southeast towards the junction town of Snuol, our gateway to the wilds of Mondulkiri, where there will be a refreshment stop. The first half of the journey from Snuol is flat, passing through patches of lush forest and areas of cultivation and plantations. After Khau Si Ma district, the road snakes up through the mountains that give Mondulkiri its name of 'where the mountains meet'. There is lush jungle hugging the road and locals claim to see tigers on this stretch at night. Nearing Sen Monorom the scenery changes again, jungle giving way to clusters of pine trees and rolling grasslands.
Afternoon tour to Bou Sraa Falls and Minority Villages: After checking in to your hotel, head east towards the double drop waterfall of Bou Sraa, one of the most famous in Cambodia. Stop along the way at a Pnong minority village to learn a little about their way of life. You may be invited to drink some rice wine, as Pnong villagers are extremely hospitable and welcoming of outsiders. Continue to Bou Sraa to explore the falls. It is possible to access both drops and there are swimming opportunities for those who want to take the plunge.
Accommodation: Stay tonight at the Mayura Hill Resort (Superior Villa)
Meals: Breakfast
Shared visit to the Elephant Valley Project: Early this morning you will gather at a cafe in Sen Monorom and travel to the nearby Elephant Valley Project in a vehicle shared with other visitors. With the support of the Pnong villagers, the project rescues and treats domestic elephants who have suffered illness or injury. Hike out to the forest to meet the elephants and walk beside them in their natural forest habitat. You can watch them interact with each other in their newly bonded family groups, where they are relearning and showing real elephant behaviour again. Learn about the elephant's histories, the local people and the unique role they play in protecting these unique animals. Enjoy a deliciously prepared lunch and unwind with a cold drink from the welcoming lounge overlooking the forested valley. Later this afternoon return to Sen Monorom in a shared vehicle. Please be aware that this experience is only operated on a shared basis with other visitors to the Elephant Valley Project. Group sizes tend to be 10 people or less.
Accommodation: Stay tonight at the Mayura Hill Resort (Superior Villa)
Meals: Breakfast & Lunch
Jungle Trekking in search of Black-Shanked Doucs: After an early breakfast travel by road to Andong Kraloung, a traditional Bunong village on the edge of the Seima Protected Forest. Set off from a cashew and mango farm with your specialist wildlife guide, and trek through tall grass and open farmland until reaching the secondary rainforest. Your guide will lead you through mixed evergreen forest to distant waterfalls, all the time listening out for the sounds of wildlife along the way. There is a good chance of seeing some of Cambodia's rare wildlife, specifically the black‐shanked doucs in their natural habitat. Also present in this area are gibbons, wild buffalo, wild pigs, elephants, the spectacular giant hornbill and green peafowl. The scheme provides local villagers with an incentive to conserve the doucs and protect its habitat and a conservation contribution is included in the cost of the trip, which supports village development projects. There is a longer trek of around 4.5 hours to Phnom O Rneung, or a shorter hike to visit to the waterfall at Leng Koh. The walking trails are poorly defined, and non-existent in places, so it is essential to take long trousers, sturdy shoes, a hat and insect repellent. This trek is only suitable if you are fit, agile and comfortable in a jungle environment. As a more gentle alternative to this trek we would recommend an excurion to the sea of forests area, just outside Sen Monorom.
Accommodation: Stay tonight at the Mayura Hill Resort (Superior Villa)
Meals: Breakfast & Lunch
Road journey from Sen Monorom to Kompong Cham: This morning, leave behind the wilds of Mondulkiri, dropping off the windswept, pine-clad hills through steaming jungle back to the lowlands of Cambodia. Continue to the bustling provincial city of Kompong Cham, and stop for lunch in a local restaurant (payable locally).
Tour of Wat Nokor, Phnom Pros, Phnom Srei, Koh Paen & Bamboo Bridge: This afternoon, visit the 'fusion' temple of Wat Nokor, an 11th century sandstone temple with a colourful modern wat set in its central courtyard. There are some intricate carvings at this temple and the kitsch contrast between the Hindu past and the Buddhist present is almost unheard of elsewhere in Cambodia. Continue to the sacred hills of Phnom Pros and Phnom Srei (man and woman hill), offering great views across the countryside.
Drive south of central Kompong Cham to the famous bamboo bridge, a structure made from scratch each year at the start of the dry season out of local materials. Cross the bridge and set foot on the laid back Mekong island of Koh Paen, a great place to see daily lives of the local fisherfolk and farmers on this fertile stretch of the river. The best way to see the island is on a hired bicycle, which your guide can arrange for you. Sunset view on the bamboo bridge are highly recommended.
Accommodation: Stay tonight at the Monorom VIP Hotel (Deluxe Room)
Meals: Breakfast
Road journey from Kompong Cham to Battambang: After breakfast this morning, travel by road from Kompong Cham to Battambang, a journey of 200 miles. En route visit Udong, capital of the Khmer kingdom between 1618 and 1866. Today Udong consists of a collection of temples and stupas containing ashes of several kings, and precious Buddha relics. The ruins are sprinkled across two ridges and are generally very quiet - it is possible that you will have the site all to yourself. At the base of the ridge is a memorial to victims of Pol Pot, containing the bones of people buried in the 100 or so mass graves found in the area. There will be a stop for a local lunch at the port town of Kompong Chhnang, located on the edge of Lake Tonle Sap. Arrive in Battambang late this afternoon.
Accommodation: Stay tonight at the Bambu Hotel (Superior Room)
Meals: Breakfast & Lunch
Half day Soksabike cycling tour: After an early breakfast this morning you will be met by your guide and taken to the Kinyei Cafe in Battambang's colonial quarter for a coffee and briefing from your cycling guide. Set off on a half day bicycle tour of Battambang and the surrounding countryside that will offer an insight into the traditional livelihoods of rural Cambodians. The emphasis of the tour is to show the reality of life in rural Cambodia, and ensure that the visit makes a positive impact on the local communities – economically, socially and ecologically. The cycling guides are all Battambang locals, many of whom are students at the city's university, and they will encourage you to learn a few words of Khmer so that you can interact with the locals you meet. The trip stops at a rice paper making village, a wine making village, a village that makes Prahok (fermented fish paste) and a cake making village. The trail follows quiet, flat, partially shaded country roads and the total distance travelled is 25-30 km.
Afternoon tour of Battambang: This afternoon drive a short distance out of town to the Bamboo Train "station". The train comprises of a simple bamboo platform on 4 wheels with a small motor, and was created by local villagers to facilitate the transportation of goods. Travel 8km on the train to the next village through beautiful landscape and rice paddies. On arrival at the village visit a workshop specialising in wooden sculpture. Continue to the hilltop temple of Phnom Sampeau, a sacred mountain dotted with interesting pagodas and stupas. There is also a moving memorial to Khmer Rouge victims who were thrown into one of the many caves that pepper this holy mountain. Finish the tour with the dramatic spectacle of thousands of bats leaving one of the caves in streaming dark clouds as dusk descends.
Accommodation: Stay tonight at the Bambu Hotel (Superior Room)
Meals: Breakfast
Private boat trip across Lake Tonle Sap to Siem Reap: This morning, depart Battambang on a private local boat journey across Lake Tonle Sap to Siem Reap on one of the most beautiful river journeys in Cambodia, a trip of between 6-7 hours. Enjoy views of the Cambodian landscape and the daily life along the river. See the incredible network of bamboo fish traps, areas of water hyacinth and pass the Prek Toal Biosphere where you may be lucky enough to see some rare large water birds. Travel across Lake Tonle Sap, which feels like a vast inland sea, until the journey ends at the floating village of Chong Kneas. From here, you will be transferred to your hotel in Siem Reap by road.
Accommodation: Stay tonight at the Shinta Mani Shack (Pool View Room)
Meals: Breakfast & Lunch
Full day tour of Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom & Ta Prohm: Probably the best time to visit Angkor Wat, the largest and most famous of the Angkor temples, is early in the morning, when the light is good and it is relatively quiet. Angkor Wat is visually, architecturally and artistically breathtaking. It is a massive three-tiered pyramid crowned by five beehive-like towers rising 65 metres from ground level. At the apex of Khmer political and military dominance in the region, Suryavarman II constructed Angkor Wat in the form of a massive 'temple-mountain' dedicated to the Hindu god, Vishnu. Angkor Wat is surrounded by a moat and an exterior wall and the walls of the temple are covered inside and out with bas-reliefs and carvings. Nearly 2,000 distinctively rendered apsara carvings adorn the walls throughout the temple and represent some of the finest examples of apsara carvings in Angkorian era art.
Angkor Thom (Big Angkor) is a walled and moated royal city and was the last capital of the Angkorian Empire. After Jayavarman VII recaptured the badly damaged Angkorian capital from the Cham invaders in 1181, he began a massive building campaign across the empire, constructing Angkor Thom as his new capital city. He began with existing structures such as Baphuon and Phimeanakas and built a grand enclosed city around them, adding the outer wall and some of Angkor's greatest temples including his state-temple, Bayon, set at the centre of the city. There are five entrances (gates) to the city, one for each cardinal point, and the victory gate leading to the Royal Palace area. Each gate, as well as much of Jayavarman VII's architecture is crowned with four giant faces. The giant stone faces of Bayon have become one of the most recognizable images connected to classic Khmer art and architecture. There are 37 standing towers, most sporting four carved faces oriented toward the cardinal points.
End the day at Ta Prohm, a hugely atmospheric due to the fact that has been left in the same state that many of the temples were first ‘discovered' by French explorer Henri Mouhot in 1860. The tentacle-like tree roots here appear to be slowly strangling the surviving stones, a reminder that while empires rise and fall, the riotous power of nature marches on oblivious to the dramas of human history.
Accommodation: Stay tonight at the Shinta Mani Shack (Pool View Room)
Meals: Breakfast
Full day tour of Kbal Spean & Banteay Srei: This morning journey north to the Kbal Spean. The original ‘River of a Thousand Lingas’, Kbal Spean is an intricately carved riverbed deep in the foothills of the Cambodian jungle. The river flows down to the Tonlé Sap lake, and in ancient times its holy waters breathed life into the rice fields of the empire via the most complex irrigation system the world had ever seen. The Khmers venerated its limestone bed with a riot of carvings, including the delicate deities Vishnu and Shiva with their consorts. Lingams are phallic representations sacred to Hindus as fertility symbols and hundreds, perhaps thousands, are carved into the bedrock here. The carvings were only rediscovered in 1969 when French researcher Jean Boulbet was shown the river by a local hermit. A trip to Kbal Spean is one of the easiest ways to experience a short jungle trek in the Angkor area, as it is a steady but scenic climb to reach the river carvings. The path winds its way through knotted vines and big boulder formations and occasionally offers big views over the surrounding jungle. And there is a small waterfall below the carved riverbed, perfect for cooling off after the hot climb.
Continue to Banteay Srei, Angkor’s ultimate art gallery. This petite pink temple is the jewel in the crown of Angkor-era sculpture. The elaborate carvings here are the finest found in Cambodia and the name translates as ‘Fortress of the Women’, thanks to the intricate detail here, considered too fine for the hands of a man. Originally believed to date from the latter part of the Angkor period, inscriptions at the site suggest it was built by a Brahman in 967. However, some architectural historians have suggested that the inscriptions may date from an earlier structure on this site and the temple is in fact later, marking a high-water mark in Khmer sculpture. Finish your tour at the ‘Jungle Temple’ - Ta Prohm. This fairly large temple is hugely atmospheric due to the fact that it has been left untouched rather than being restored. The jungle has reclaimed the temple, with huge tree trunks and vines snaking around the centuries-old stone work. Here you can get a feeling of how the first European explorers would have found the ruins.
Accommodation: Stay tonight at the Shinta Mani Shack (Pool View Room)
Meals: Breakfast
Private transfer: This evening, you will be transferred to Siem Reap Airport for your Vietnam Airlines flight to Hanoi.
Flight: VN834 Siem Reap - Hanoi 20.30 - 22.10
Flight: VN55 Hanoi - London Heathrow 01.10 - 07.40